Jocelyn Yih

Agi & Sam SS16

Jocelyn Yih
Agi & Sam SS16

Agi & Sam is always a treat every season. The designer duo's playfulness shows, at first, through their invitation - a single-sided card that has invisible ink scribbled on it. On the side, guests are provided with an UV torch to reveal the location and time of the show, scribbled by invisible ink. Outside the shows, I happen to overhear a conversation that 'London Collections Men is really growing'. The make-up alone has become an art form; this season, Agi & Sam once again collaborates with Isamaya Ffrench (check out the whole deal on lego masks last season).

Before incorporating the whole deal of stripes being a trend this season. The make-up is always highlight: dark bruised eyes with glitter stars punched on. This accompanied Agi & Sam's aesthetic - smart casual. The balance of the two extremes meant pieces like shearling jackets, but also culottes. It was also the show that made me realise that stripes are back, for good. And exactly that few days of LCM, I got a call from my friend at The Tab who asked 'what exactly is the trend this season?', one of the few questions I stumble on; because the answer would usually be a medley of images I can remember - usually when bombarded by interviewers about thoughts on that specific collection/piece. I left the AW15 shows not knowing how to answer that question since there wasn't sufficient time to see everything.

SS16, on the other hand, I nearly made it to every show invited (sorry, Henry Holland). There came a point in time where I sat through show after show, nodded and found myself whispering to self 'stripes'. Repetition like so has never happened to me, least in such a short span of one season's shows. The fact that there's so much of it made it impossible for anyone to criticise designers for imitating off each other. But this will come clearer when my reviews come under way. And you'll get the same nod as I did when watching stripes fly past me, again and again. Agi & Sam made it clear that the intention was not to make a collection that creates an instantaneous recognition; rather a collection focused on the construction of men's clothing. 

To be continued... #tbc