Jocelyn YihUNESCO

Loewe Spring Summer 17

Jocelyn YihUNESCO
Loewe Spring Summer 17

Surrounded by a plethora of ceramics, block seating assembled by the likes of leather, wood, concrete, and with the addition of UNESCO’s random objects that, for real, could not possibly have any meaning to them – it could potentially take months to digest the abstract Anderson’s latest womenswear collection; all to flash before your eyes in a matter of a quarter of an hour.

 

Loewe’s design objects are experimental – as developed from the “Bowls” collection, under Anderson’s viewpoint, to translate craftsmanship and traditional techniques into real-life fantasies. Have a look at Loewe Flower Shop in Spain – an example that Anderson’s creative direction does not solely convert to clothing. In fact, Loewe has steadily moved towards a cultural direction – to serve experience over commerce. His diverse spectrum of design is further exemplified through the Loewe Craft Prize – an award precisely focuses on innovative techniques, freedom of expression and craftsmanship.

 

Not so few months ago, the brand has also found ‘Past, present and future’ – a visual coffee table book and connected as an extensive idea towards various other elements: the newly renovated Casa Loewe, the actual exhibition in Madrid, Loewe 001, and this womenswear Spring Summer 17 collection, no less. 

 

‘Modernity of its past’ is a motto Loewe has recently embraced. Anderson’s passion for the archives has proven its success with the Loewe Puzzle – a 21st century bag that is apt for the modern customer. To match on the abstract of Anderson’s seasonal inspirations, this seasons’ keywords were: ‘cloud bags, bats, lilies, video, homely, voyeuristic, domestic, feminine and free’.

 

Prior to the show, the intimate setting of the show featured a visual backdrop on a loop: “Offshore” by Magali Reus. The video presented a man swimming in the sea in his attempts to retrieve oil drums, and that alone was enough abstraction to scare anyone without familiarity with modern art – what could it possibly mean? And, if any at all, what correlation would it have with the show? In the video, the man’s continued attempts to retrieve the oil drum could be a metaphor to Anderson’s continuous attempt to grow the brand since his takeover – a task that clearly, like much of which in the creative industry, is not ultimate nor definitive. Or, it could as well be a stark contrast with the actual running of the show itself. Sometimes, it is precisely the contrary that works. And, at times, designs do exist with no explanation.

 

The collection itself was very much organic and pure, as in the organic evolution of the Loewe woman. Silhouettes have become looser, opposing to clenched waists on the previous collection. The accessories were variable – from the knotted pouches in the beginning of the collection to larger Napa leather clutches, and even suede holdalls.  Other signature bags were also present, but evolved with eye-catching quotes and graphic prints, such as the comedic “See u later” and cloud prints (both of which are available in the hammock). With its flared volumes, extra long sleeves and broderie anglaise, this collection speaks to a range of audience, as evident in the Loewe Publication No. 12 featuring British actress Charlotte Rampling and model Kiki Willems.

Photography & Words / Jocelyn Yih